Hi JD,

You’ve gotten to a high level of surfing despite the start where you could barely ride a wave. It has taken you some years to get to where you currently at with surfing. That’s a great thing – you’ve progressed! It’s a sport you love, and you have gone through many waves, be it good or (what you felt) poor attempts at surfing in order to get better.

You may be harsh on yourself because you have expectations of yourself. Maybe it’s also seeing a peer who started out surfing the same time you have, and has gotten to a higher level you have (this I speak from personal experience, not surfing, though). Or you may have had a trainer who also told you that ‘you would never surf well’?

I have bad days where I question what I’m doing, if I’m doing the right thing with ‘wasting my life’ and sacrificing things I valued to get to where I am today. On those days, I acknowledge my negative feelings, and be kinder on myself. I also have good days where I feel like I can make a difference to what I’m doing, and I want to improve more.

We all have days like that, and you’re not alone.

I think you are trying to improve on your surfing, and you might feel frustrated because it feels like you’ve hit a wall somewhere. Don’t give up.

H