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Posts tagged with “surfing”

We Are Allowed to Age: Why I Don’t Care That I Look Old

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“When there is no enemy within, the enemies outside cannot hurt you.” ~African Proverb

It is just past ten in the morning on a Tuesday.

My wet boardshorts and blue tank top are drying at lightning speed in the sweltering South Indian sun.

I am feeling alive and exhilarated after my surf session in the surreal blue, bathtub-warm Arabian Sea.

Surfing waves consistently has been my goal for the past two years, and I’m doing it. Which is pretty awesome considering that I never thought I would surf again.

The trauma and fear from a surfing accident ten years ago, …

How Surfing Helped Me Turn Fear and Anxiety into Confidence

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“If you want to conquer fear, don’t sit home and think about it. Go out and get busy.” ~Dale Carnegie

Not too long ago I went through an extremely chaotic and emotional two-week period. Anything that could go wrong or be difficult did and was. I thought it would never end.

When it began, the little hiccups were easy to let roll off my shoulders. After about a week, I was feeling pretty worn down and was in tears daily. At the end, I felt numb, and when things kept going wrong I would say to myself “Sure… Okay …what’s …

50-Year-Old Paraplegic Woman Surfs with Her Sons

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Pascale Honore has lived without the use of her legs for the last eighteen years, but that hasn’t stopped her from taking risks and trying new things.

After commenting that she wished she could join her sons surfing, a family friend offered an interesting solution: duct taping her to his back so she could ride the waves with him. And though others thought the idea was crazy, Pascale agreed–after, of course, the friend trained with a forty-five-pound backpack.

Where there’s a will, there’s a way, and seeing the sheer joy and exhilaration on her face, it’s clear it was well …